A Day on the Road: Kep to Phnom Penh to Siem Reap

After debating the advantages and disadvantages of each of the route options to Siem Riep, where we had booked for the second half of our Cambodia stay in order to see the ancient temple runs of Angkor Wat and others, we opted for overland travel. We could have bused or taxied to Phnom Penh, and caught a cheap Bassaka Air flight to Siem, or driven to Sihanoukville and thence to Siem Reap although the flights are more expensive. We chose taxi, changing in Phnom Penh, as it was really our last opportunity to see the Cambodian countryside. We got the driver from Kep to PP to drop us at the Royal Palace so we could walk around the grounds and the Mekong River, then changed to a more comfortable vehicle for the longer stretch to Siem Reap. there are major roadworks afoot in Cambodia, so part of the way was excellent, a new four lane highway of smooth bitumen, but the parts where roadworks are still underway, fortunately the minority, were dirty and bumpy, orange pea gravel not dissimilar to red dirt roads in Australia.

I love the stilt houses, presumably geared to wet season flooding. Cambodia is quite flat along the delta region, but the landscape changed al the tie- sometimes jungle, sometimes farmland.  this time of year, there is much burning off of rice stubble, but it creates amazing sunsets!

Arriving in Siem Reap, after a long day on the road, the room was disappointing, although the greeting and service were excellent. So we spent one night in a very ordinary, indeed  dismal, bat cave - on the ground floor, not what we had booked at all-with a smelly bathroom (presumably a blocked drain), before switching today to a MUCH nicer room on the top floor, with a shared but comfy balcony overlooking the pool. Much more private, despite the outside space being a shared one, and aesthetically more appealing, with more light, better furniture, more privacy as it isn't on the ground floor thoroughfare by the pool, and with  little things that make a difference, such as bedside lamps and comfortable furniture, apart from the kg sized bed, to lounge about on. And a bathtub, which I may well need after days spent temple-trekking or cycling- they offer free vintage bikes here! the pool area is lovely and jungly and there is a happy hour two for one cocktail deal.

The food is not bad here at the Villa Indochine, but we figured as the hotel offers a free tuktuk service into town, complete with a free mobile phone to request a return ride, we'd avail ourselves of that today. We ate at a funky (to the point of being slightly Hipster- recycled jam jars for glasses!)place called Sister Srey,  which thankfully was in a quiet street by the river. It is owned by two Aussie sisters who give generously to local causes. They offer all all day breakfast (the hotel is only 7am to 10am) and healthy vego food, AND HP sauce and Tabasco, which pleased Chris no end.

We bought a couple of books from Vanna, an ex-army officer maid by a landmine (he has no hands). Perfect! A two way English-Khmer dictionary and a fake Lonely Planet Cambodia guide, so that we don't always have to be connected to internet to seek information.

We went for a wander around the river area, popping into the Hard Rock Cafe Angkor to inspect the memorabilia (signed guitars and nothing by rock legends) and the art precincts, where many market stalls offer Cambodian crafts. I like this opportunistic shopping, rather than deliberate shopping. We bought a beautiful silk scarf each and I a hammock. Chris was pleased to find a nice, replacement silver bangle to compensate for several he wore for years, which were cut from him after the motorbike accident (Cambodia is renowned for cheap silverware). I found a small silver turtle at the same stall, to add to my collection  of turtle miniatures for round the world. I also bought a strong but light and compact hammock for about $1.50- perfect to take camping or hiking! The bonus was a Chines New year parade which passed by our front row seats where we waited for the hotel tuktuk driver to pull in.

The tuk tuk driver offered to take is to a mobile phone outlet on the way home, so we were able to buy SIM cards for the small spare phones we brought (roaming is expensive here). 5c per minute even overseas! I phoned home a little while ago and am happy to discover that Brynnie, though down in Northcliffe with his Dad now, settled in well to the start of the school year  this week, with his new teacher Craig, who apparently gives good positive feedback about B's sporting prowess (much bragging on Bryn's part). It feels good to know I can phone home easily now, and give my lovely boy a telephonic hug and kiss! Chris and I can also phone or text each other, if we become separated, or want to go out solo for a bit.